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Reef Hawaiian Wha?
 
Location: BlogsVicki Vasil's Blog    
Posted by: Vicki Vasil 11/26/2007

 

Yeah, I get it. I know. Part of the nature of surfing is just that; the patience [subservient relationship] we must endure with Mother Nature and the Surf Gods.

After all, once you've even paddled out it could take tons of sets to catch your wave. Storms and currents. Blah blah blah. But still. I mean, OFF for 6 days? Why do I feel impatient? Is it because I'm from the east coast and we force a contest in even the worst of conditions? Are they just spoiled here? If perhaps the waves weren't perfect, would everyone surfing the same chop skew the standings one way or another?

Crap! *feet stomping* I want to see a contest!

Did the little walk to Waimea Falls. Got scraped up by some coral. Caught the sunsets, and even a sunrise. Shaved ice? Check. Share a case of cheap beer in a studio apt. shared by three locals? Check. Taken to the secret swim spot? Yeah. We did a ton of great stuff while we were here. Couldn't have imagined a better "first time" except for this whole no-contest snafu.

However, it is not often that I am in Hawaii with a surf contest on. Actually, holy $hit! This is my first time here! Yeah, I got to see some of the best surfers hit Pipe, and the women blew me away, too--no name-dropping needed, after all this is the North Shore.

I'd much rather see the Quik team et al surfing than surf-and-turfing at Lei Lei's at Turtle Bay (It's a nice consolation, though I do wish this were a corporate-sponsored trip!) haHA! Those meals ain't cheap! Which explains why I preferred the Bakery and Foodland for most of my meals.

I love it here. It didn't change my experience to watch people surf the spots I've heard so much about instead of at Ali'i in Haliewa. I travel a lot and while there are places and people I love and miss all over the world, it's rare that I feel at home somewhere like I did here. And I've said, I'm not a big time surfer at all. There's just something about the simplicity of early mornings and rusty beach cruisers. Something about beach-dried hair and secret smiles from everyone you pass. The hipocrisy of  "Keeping the Country Country" bumper stickers slapped onto former Southern-Cali boys' clunkers... I love it all.

The only reason I really want my money back is so that I can come back in January. Maybe a contest will be ON.

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